It is right to call it Grand, and it is also right to consider some of it bizarre. What a labyrinth of shops and stalls, twisting and turning, with dead ends here and right turns there and here you are back again and where is that scarf shop I like and why can't I find a way out of this place!?!?!
Established shortly after Mehmet II took over the city in 1453, this market can be entered through several different gates, and it is covered by brickwork domes.
Some of the more tradition wares include carpets, metal work, textiles and ceramics, but Istanbul wouldn't be Istanbul without the usual tourist items like dried fruit, nuts, jewellery, turkish delight and nougat, soaps, and the list goes on. I thinking getting lost is part of the fun, and when you find a place to sit down and have a coffee you sit down and have a coffee, and when you find a scarf or a necklace you like you buy it.
Of course you don't just ask how much it is and pay that amount. That's no fun. You need to bargain. I would not be a bit surprised to be told that the art of bargaining began in Istanbul. It's like a dance - you need to know a little bit of the steps but also be willing and able to change them along the way and you might think you are inventing new steps but someone along the way has already danced them. And that is just fine because the imrotant thing is you hit the dance floor and danced.
To bargain well you have to know a little bit about what you are bargaining for. Is it real silver? Is it real silk? Does it taste good? You must be especially careful when buying things like jewellery, especially with gold and gems. It's not too hard to find something really silver (sterling silver is marked with 925) or gold (marked with the number of carats, usually 10, 12, 14, 18 or 24). The higher the number the more pure the gold and thus the value. Remember though that pure gold is quite soft and so something that is 24 carat gold will dent fairly easily. That's why cartoon characters and Olympic athletes bite their gold coins and gold medals. If they can see their teeth marks, it's a good thing because it will indicate purer gold. Some athletes bite their silver and bronze medals too but that's only because photograhers ask them to.
Once you have done your homework and have decided what you want, it would be good to ask what it costs in several other stalls, making note of where the quality or the colour might be better so you will know where you will make your move. When you are ready, decide what your target price is. But don't be unreasonable. A scarf that ranges from 20 to 30 L is nt going to sell on its own for 5. but it might sell for 15-20. And if you bought more than one you might be able to get the price per item even lower.
A good strategy, when facing a price quote of 25 L would be to look a little sad and say that's too much for you. Start to move away, but hang back in case they don't respond. But I'm pretty sure they will respond with the question of what you can afford. Offer 10 apologetically, as if you know they would never accept such a ridiculous price. And their reaction will be just that. They will huff and tell you about the blind girl who made whatever it is on her nights off from the factory where she works 18 hour shifts to pay for her children to have food on the table. You nod and say you understand, but you don't have very much and you need it to find someplace to sleep tonight. Let them be the one to bring it down to, say, 22. No, you say, it's too much, you can only offer 10. They might look a little disgusted but will probably say 20, especially if you say it's the nicest one you have seen (flattery) and start to edge away.
At this look up a little more cheerful. Make a show about digging around in your purse or wallet, or conferring with a friend accompanying you. Pretend to find a 5 L note and say you can offer 15 L. They will say no of course, but if you start to walk, they will cave. If you want to buy nore than one, pretend you have found a 20 L note - would they take 30 L for 2? (or even better "find" a 10 and a 5 and try to get 2 for 25 L ) No, no, they will say, well, no, well, okay then. Make sure you have the exact money ready to hand over. This is not the time to hand over a 100 L note and ask for change!!
The other thing, and the hardest thing for some people to do, is to be prepared to walk away. If they are really not budging, it's because you are not offering a realistic enough starting position or they have the sort of place that will will not really bargain. although even these places will round down for you rather than lose a sale.
If you still want to try for it, come back a little later as if you can't tear yourself away from whatever it is, and try your luck again, and maybe adjust your price upwards a bit if you really do want it. But don't get carried away. Make sure you have a price limit for what you are willing to part with.
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