Each region of Turkey has its own style and colours. At least traditionally they have, for the colours originally derived from local plants and herbs. Now it is possible to get any colour from chemical dyes, which doesn't make the carpets worth less, just not necessarily rooted to one locale. Kurdish rugs,found near the border of Iran, usually have a wool warp and two woolen wefts, are slightly shaggier (looser weave), often a rusty/orange tone and a single or repeating medallion. Anatolian rugs (central Turkey) are known for having a single medallion that is often a scarlet or purply-red with a thin gold line. Kula traditionally use a geometric style, similar to those of the Caucasus. The village of Dosemealtis makes very appealing rugs in basic colours but good designs. A
EJ has a friend from his early days in Istanbul, someone he always visits when here, and who very graciously invited us all for dinner and a carpet buying experience.
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a carpet seller'r window |
Ismet is a very lively fellow with a fierce expression and wild hair. He is also an excellent seller of carpets. First he throws out some area rugs, and rattled off their origins. Each were lovely, but they got lovelier. Everyone was very quiet, neither wishing to be the first to ask "How much?" Drinks are brought in: beer, ayran (buttermilk), or coke. Finally, one student bravely asked and all were completely cowed by the reply of $6000. "Do you have anything for $50?" "Yes, of course." And smaller area carpets come out and we are all taught along the way how carpets are made and what to look for.
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old saddle bags - not you, the carpets! |
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examining a carpet's provenance |
Ismet is very a passionate about keeping Turkey's carpet history alive in a day when carpets are of less value and use. He buys old pieces - some 150 or 200 years old - and restores them. If they are beyond restoration he makes cushion covers out of them, and these he sells for $35-40. After a few such sales, laying it on thick about how valuable they are, etc., someone gets bold and tries to bargain. Ismet stops them and says "I am not here to make money off you. That would not be smart. EJ would not bring his students and I would jeopardize a valued friendship." It's about relationships (isn't everything?) "Of course bargaining is a good thing to do in the market, but my carpets are the value I say - I get some mark up of course but not so much, and I know you might come back and buy more another day." This has happened in a big way, to both EJ and Ismet's surprise and to Ismet's bank account.
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a captive audience |
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this is a prayer rug - it has an inner area to sit for praying and a clearly defined incidation of which part of the carpet should point towards Mecca |
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this repeating teardrop deisgn is called a Boteh |
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intricate geometric designs in few but attractive colours |
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an appealing choice with - |
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so many colours and tight weaving |
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a carpet fit for a Sultan, or someone else with a big purse! |
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Some things are not for sale! |
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