Magic

My last two evenings in Istanbul were achingly wonderful.  They are intertwined in my memory and I cannot separate them without dismantling some of their magin, so they must remain combined as one evening.

Eric, Walter and I set out to find a place for dinner.  We walked towards the south, along the right side below the royal palace from our hotel, an area neither of us had explored before.  Passing place after place, Eric felt none were quite right, they didn't give off the right vibe.  They certainly were set up for tourists and it didn't help when they did their "hey come to my place, see menu, steaks, shish, come look"  spiel, as that took them out of consideration in Eric's opinion.  Our course took us down a steep hill and soon into a real neightbourhood.  A few ragged shops, children in the streets, laundry on a piece of wire, old Ottoman houses crumbling even as they housed families.  Still we walked. 

Walter started to worry about having to make the long walk uphill later in the evening and my left leg was aching and numb telling me my back was not all that keen.  We were vagualy zigzagging down the hill, and every turn we made with optimism, which soon disolved.  We passed under the train line and the housing became worse, very sad and poor.  Walter and I wondered if Eric had lost his mind and where on earth was he taking us.  Even Eric was starting to wonder if we should head towards the water and cafes he was familiar with.  It was getting darker too.  Would we even get dinner?

Another turn, and suddenly we saw dozens of little lights strung across the street, four lines of red and green and gold, and blue on wire above our heads.  Was there a party in this street?  There were a few more lights by an opening in the wall, and Eric and I exchanged glances before peeking inside.  "I think we've found our place." said Eric.  A garden with about 8 tables were set up inder the trees and more lights.  There was no menu: everyone was given a selection of meze before a meal of fish.  We drank white wine and finished with a form of Turkish brandy.

There wasn't a lot of conversation between us, it was too unexpected a find, such a grand reward for our walk.  It was a very nice easy feeling between the three of us, now at the end of what has been an incredible experience and a beautifully planned and executed trip.

As we walked back in what was not after all such a long walk as it happend.  We emerged near the space between Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque. We picked up a few pieces of backlava and Eric's favourite shop and took them to the forecourt of the blue mosque.  It was the night of the "super" moon, a full moon that was a little nearer to earth than usual, which made its light a beacon that rivaled the mosque's.  Suddenly, the call to prayer rang out.  We sat on the stone in the cool of the night, listening to the call and silently eating backlava, watching sea birds wheel and dive around the minarets which we lit like white birtthday candles.  It was the most magical night, I will never forget it, and I am so glad to have shared it with kindred spirits.