Boating on the Bosphorous

Of all the greatest rivers of the world, the Bosphorous must surely be one.  Its very name is synomymous with mystery and history.  Istanbul straddles east and west, as well as north and south of the strategic location at the mouth of the Bosphorous River leading to the Sea of Marmara.  It has long been access to Russia's only warm water port, and the last major port at the eastern end of the Medditerranean.

Many many moons ago, the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea were both lakes. The last global warming period caused the Black Sea to spill its banks and create the Bosphorus river, which itself spilled through to the Mediterranean.  So it really is a wonderful place for a boat ride, straddling continents and countries along the way.  We boarded near the Galata Bridge, which is full of fishermen on top and fish sandwich restaurants on the bottom.  


The New Mosque as we move towards the Galata Bridge



Galata Bridge

 Two monstrous cruise ships were just heading out:

The New Mosque as we move towards the Galata Bridge

We headed north along the European coast, passing by palaces and castles

the thoroughly opulent Dolmabache palace,
where Repulic leader Atatuuk died in 1938

I think I will take tea
in the west wing this afternoon!

the grandly named Fortress of Europe.  Mehmet II built it in 1493 at the narrowest point of the river in preparation for his conquest of Constantinople
this must rank as one of the longer projects
completed in preparation for someting else!

 On our way down the Asian coast we saw many grand homes that will soon be opened up for their usual habitation in summer:

The water had that dark blue hue that looks oily (but isn't) and the lace white spray tasted salt on our tongues

 

We all had goofy grins on our faces like children who are having the time of their lives. With the sun now edging downwards, I caught my breath as I saw the city's shape etched in gold. Is there any other place in the world with as good a silhouette as Istanbul?

 

 

The Best Clean Ever

Why pay someone to wash you?  Because in Turkey it is part of the cultural fabric, and no fabric is good if it's not clean.

Hamami, or Turkish Baths have existed for centuries, and fulfilled functions other than allowing nomadic people a place to clean themselves after travelling for many days and before going back into the desert.  The Hamams were communal places, and bathing then was social, and a way to gather and pass on news and other information.

Each hamami has two separate sections entered into through two separate entrances, one for men and one for women.  As women were rarely allowed outside their homes, the hamami provided much needed social interaction with other women.  The hours that a hamami is open for men are more than those for women, which makes me wonder anew if women really do take longer to complete their toilette than men say..

I did experience a similar experience in Budapest, Hungary, but it is never exactly the same thing in another country of course so I was eager to try it. But I didn't want to go alone.  For one thing I do not speak the language, and for another, new experiences are always better when shared.  I would never inflict myself on Eric'sstudents - they do not want someone as old as I tagging along so what to do? My dear friend Adrienne (Eric's wife) had told me in advance to go with Izmet's daughter. 

Izmet is a man who has established himself as one of the premier carpet sellers in Turkey and flies all over buying or selling carpets.  He and Eric go way back, and Eric always brings his students to Izmet to get a good, carpet buying lesson and experience.  Eric kindly set it up, and I walked to the hamami recommended at 4:30pm to meet Aicha.

The sign above the entrance indicates this hamami has been in operation since 1732,but its brochure cites 1505.  I don't know which is correct, but it doesn't really matter.  It's old.

Upon entering, we were directed to one of the many tiny rooms that line both upstairs and downstairs of the inner courtyard, which is called a camekan.  Each room has a window, a bench to sit on, hooks for clothing, and a tiny refrigerator.  I was also given a rather skimpy little towel.  Once all my clothing (all!) was removed, I wrapped myself in my towel, and locked the door to what for the next hour and a half will be my room.

Aicha and I moved through passageways into a series of very warm rooms, all floor to ceiling marble. Our first room held four large basins of water that look like Victorian street fountains. We sat down at two different basins and started to fill a plastic dish with wash to pour over ourselves, opening out our pores in the steamy atmosphere.  I gave up trying to keep myself covered once the water started to soak through my skimpy towel, but any embarrassment felt about allowing my naked body to be exposed to all was mine alone.  No one else cares.  We are all women and we all have beautiful bodies not matter whether they are fat or thin.  This is a truth many cultures know, but my culture is still a little shy about it, and verrging on the prudish. But I can be shy and prudish at home and open here.  Why not?  Everything is about context anyway.

As we added more scalding or freezing water to our marble basins, and poured dish after dish over our arms and hair and backs and feet, Aicha and I filled the air with conversation.  She is a very open and engaging woman, passionate and funny.  I was able to ask her more about the protests going on in Turkey from her viewpoint, and she told me about a house she has just bought that requires a lot of renovation. 

After about 15 minutes I was gestured to go into the main room next door.  It was a big, square room, with shower pipes along one wall, and sinks such as those I had jsut used along another wall.  In the middles was a large square box of warm marble, on which I was to lie face down.

A beefy Turkish woman shifted me into position and then started to massage my back and legs, vigorously but not at all painfully.  I placed my arms along my body but they were placed above my head immediately.  After my back was done, she tapped me on the back to indicatie I was to turn over for the same treatment to be given to my front side.  Another tap and I was to sit upright to have my arms done.  I have heard that in the not too distant past a dull knife was used, so not all modernity is bad in my opinion!  Out of the corner of my eyes I coluld see a layer of black coming off my skin.  Eww - I was wearing that?

Lying down on my front again I was lathered up with suds and scrubbed, more suds added so that I could feel the bubbles popping on my back.  Tap-tap and turn over. The marble is extremely slippery but my beefy soapstress just kept pulling and pushing and stopping me as I slid around on my warm soapy plinth. When I was done she through buckets of clean water over me until I was virtually soap free and I sat up thinking I was done.  But not quite.

A big squeeze of shampoo and my hair got the sudsing treatment.  My forehead was knocked back and forth by her ample cleavage and I had an inkiling of what it must be like to be a child in this culture, treating efficiently and lovingly but not able to exert any kind of will over the formidable power of the mama.

I was sent to whichever part of the room I wished to complete my rincing.  I had lots of time to put on conditioner and let it sit as I languidly poured basins-full of water over me which Aicha was cleaned.  We had a bit more time to socialize while rincing and that was it.  We left the main washing area for a small hallway from which we asked for new towels to wrap around ourselves to enter the changing area again.  There was a hairdryer and tea or water if we wanted it.

I know there are many newer and more beautiful hamams in Istanbul, but this was an authentic experience in an authentic place, and at 50 Lira it was considerably cheaper than the others.



Hamams have glass insserted in theirr rooves so that
to allow light into the baths

The two large domes (with light well)
denote the two large rooms, one for women and one for men

To market, to market - Part 2 - The Grand Bazaar and the art of bargaining

It is right to call it Grand, and it is also right to consider some of it bizarre.  What a labyrinth of shops and stalls, twisting and turning, with dead ends here and right turns there and here you are back again and where is that scarf shop I like and why can't I find a way out of this place!?!?!

Established shortly after Mehmet II took over the city in 1453, this market can be entered through several different gates, and it is covered by brickwork domes. 

Some of the more tradition wares include carpets, metal work, textiles and ceramics, but Istanbul wouldn't be Istanbul without the usual tourist items like dried fruit, nuts, jewellery, turkish delight and nougat, soaps, and the list goes on. I thinking getting lost is part of the fun, and when you find a place to sit down and have a coffee you sit down and have a coffee, and when you find a scarf or a necklace you like you buy it.

Of course you don't just ask how much it is and pay that amount.  That's no fun.  You need to bargain.  I would not be a bit surprised to be told that the art of bargaining began in Istanbul.  It's like a dance - you need to know a little bit of the steps but also be willing and able to change them along the way and you might think you are inventing new steps but someone along the way has already danced them.  And that is just fine because the imrotant thing is you hit the dance floor and danced.

To bargain well you have to know a little bit about what you are bargaining for.  Is it real silver?  Is it real silk?  Does it taste good?  You must be especially careful when buying things like jewellery, especially with gold and gems.  It's not too hard to find something really silver (sterling silver is marked with 925) or gold (marked with the number of carats, usually 10, 12, 14, 18 or 24).  The higher the number the more pure the gold and thus the value.  Remember though that pure gold is quite soft and so something that is 24 carat gold will dent fairly easily.  That's why cartoon characters and Olympic athletes bite their gold coins and gold medals.  If they can see their teeth marks, it's a good thing because it will indicate purer gold.  Some athletes bite their silver and bronze medals too but that's only because photograhers ask them to.

Once you have done your homework and have decided what you want, it would be good to ask what it costs in several other stalls, making note of where the quality or the colour might be better so you will know where you will make your move.  When you are ready, decide what your target price is. But don't be unreasonable.  A scarf that ranges from 20 to 30 L is nt going to sell on its own for 5.  but it might sell for 15-20.  And if you bought more than one you might be able to get the price per item even lower. 

A good strategy, when facing a price quote of 25 L would be to look a little sad and say that's too much for you.  Start to move away, but hang back in case they don't respond.  But I'm pretty sure they will respond with the question of what you can afford.  Offer 10 apologetically, as if you know they would never accept such a ridiculous price.  And their reaction will be just that.  They will huff and tell you about the blind girl who made whatever it is on her nights off from the factory where she works 18 hour shifts to pay for her children to have food on the table.  You nod and say you understand, but you don't have very much and you need it to find someplace to sleep tonight.  Let them be the one to bring it down to, say, 22.  No, you say, it's too much, you can only offer 10. They might look a little disgusted but will probably say 20, especially if you say it's the nicest one you have seen (flattery) and start to edge away.

At this look up a little more cheerful.  Make a show about digging around in your purse or wallet, or conferring with a friend accompanying you.  Pretend to find a 5 L note and say you can offer 15 L.  They will say no of course, but if you start to walk, they will cave.  If you want to buy nore than one, pretend you have found a 20 L note - would they take 30 L for 2? (or even better "find" a 10 and a 5 and try to get 2 for 25 L )  No, no, they will say, well, no, well, okay then.  Make sure you have the exact money ready to hand over.  This is not the time to hand over a 100 L note and ask for change!!

The other thing, and the hardest thing for some people to do, is to be prepared to walk away.  If they are really not budging, it's because you are not offering a realistic enough starting position or they have the sort of place that will will not really bargain.  although even these places will round down for you rather than lose a sale. 

If you still want to try for it, come back a little later as if you can't tear yourself away from whatever it is, and try your luck again, and maybe adjust your price upwards a bit if you really do want it.  But don't get carried away.  Make sure you have a price limit for what you are willing to part with. 

To market, to market - Part 1 - The Spice Market

Istanbul is famous for its markets of course. There are two particular ones that get all the attention and deservedly so.

The Spice Market is an L-shaped covered building down near the Yeni Cami (New Mosque) and the Galata Bridge.  It was actually built to be part of the Mosque complex in the early 17th century.  You heard me right.  The "New Mosque" was built in the early 17th Century!

When built to help add to the Mosque's revenues, this market sold spices because at the time they were very special additions to food, adding vital flavours and colours.  They were expensive too, and Istanbul was the perfect place to sell them given its strategic location along the spice route between the Orient, where most of them were grown, and Europe. 

Today it is still possible to buy spices here, but also turkish delight and nougat and tea and nuts and dried fruit.  And caviar, another expensive commodity and not so far from its source in Russia on the other side of the Bosphorous.  The colours and smells are still wonderful and the place is always seething with people.

To be truly memorable, every market needs an oddity, which I found at the end of the L, in a pet store.  That is an oddity in itself, as Turks don't really have pets despite the enormous number of street cats.  And maybe it's just as well and this pet store offers leeches.  What, you don't like leeches? Why not? They are easy to feed, easy to clean, and they take almost no room.  Who wouldn't want to take a nice little leech home as a souvenir.  I'm sure airport customs will be happy to usher it through!

Awww, aren't they cute? 
How do you choose which one to take home for a cuddle?
 



light in darkness

I was asked to pick the highlight of my first day of the tour.  There were a ton of them to choose from: visiting a Byzantine church-cum-mosque-cum-museum gem and a Roman cistern, and the spice market and mosques with carpet underfoot and tiles overhead, the smell of smoke and hot corn and chestnuts, and the smell of watermelon cut in huge luscious chunks, and sharing an early evening drink on a quiet tree-lined street with 2 top architects talking about religion and family history and Japanese economics. 

But for me, the highlight was sitting in the courtyard of a Mosque designed by famous Turkish architect Sinan.  He was born in Anatolya in 1491 and educated in Istambul to become a military engineer, but got plucked by the sultan Suleyman 1 to become the imperial architect.  He was the closest Turkey ever got to having a Renaissance architect and designed many wonderful buildings still in use let alone existence. I think he must have won the favour of more than just the sultan, as he lived to a whopping 97.

This particular place that we visited today is known as the Gazi Ahmet Pasha Mosque, built in an octagonal form with a large courtyard, and a fountain at the centre for the washing of the feet.  Built in the walls are individual rooms for students, and a few large rooms for collective study.  Sitting there, I had no idea that we were in the middle of bustling Istanbul - there was only one part of one building that I could see from the courtyard.  There were two trees with flowers planted in circles below them.  The walkway between the courtyard and the rooms was covered and shaded, a serene place to sit.

While all the other students went abougt their sketching, Eric came over to give me my first lesson in drawing.  He suggested that the best way to draw a straight line is not to draw a straight line.  In other words, plant your hand, and move your fingers only to draw a squiggly line. And then don't draw over it.  Don't turn your hand to make a slanted line, but rather turn your page so that you are drawing another straight (squiggly) line. In fact, don't draw a line at all, but let your pencil (H or B) skip a bit as it goes.  Map out a building by dividing the place into sections of straight lines first.  Eureka!

Of all the riches I experienced today, the very best one was sitting in that peaceful, quiet courtyard in an exquisitely beautiful building getting a private drawing lesson from a pro who is also one of my best friends. 

a restful place still used as an Islamic school

EJ doing what EJ does extremely well indeed!

Protests in Istanbul

"May you live in interesting times" Old Chinese Curse that sounds like a Blessing


It's an interesting time to be here in Istanbul.  There have been a few days of rather stormy protests in one or two specific areas.  There have been many arrests - and some injuries due primarily to tear gas and apparently heavy handling of the situation by the police. 

The protest stems from one particular issue, but represents a growing feeling of dissatisfaction of the current Islamist government which many feel has become too authoritarian and imposing conservative Islamic values on an officially secular and democratic country.  Prime Minister Edogan has described himself as a Muslim prime minister of a secular state, which is not how many Turksih wish to view themselves. 

It is thought he may seek an amendment to the constitution and introduce a presidential system. His opponents fear that the change from the current parliamentary system would grant too much power to a man they already accuse of authoritarianism. The Republic was founded in 1923 as a strictly secularist and nationalist state - not just a separation of state and religion, but also the removal of religion from all aspects of public life. So it's no wonder there is some concern here.

The issue that seems to have broken the proverbial camel's back is the decision to remove a park, a particularly rare and well used park for the neighbourhood in question.  I heard one report that it will become a mall ("yet another shopping mall" was the quote) and another that it will become a mosque ("we don't need another mosque" was the quote).  Regardless, a large group gathered Friday which resulted in the usual and unfortunate damage and looting, but also in the use of tear gas and police batons.

The atmosphere today was calmer and less eventful, with music concerts in the park, and calls for the gathering to remain peaceful.

I was amused by a comment Turkish Prime Minister Erdogan said about social media, through which the protests have been co-ordinated and discussed. He said Twitter was a "curse" and an "extreme version of lying."  There are many that would no doubt agree with him but not for the reasons he has I expect.  His words just made me laugh.  They remind me of a line from one of Monty Python's movies (Search for the Holy Grail).  "Your mother was a hamster and your father smelled of elderberries!"

To anyone who might be worried then, don't be.  It's not like being confronted with dynamite-throwing protest rallies like I was in Bolivia, or like being suched under the sea onto a coral reef like I was in Tonga, or having to choose between tarantula spiders and land mines, and chosing land mines as the preferred option like I was in Cambodia.  Is this making you feel better?

Seriously, we will watch with interest but from afar. A couple of the students went closer to the area yesterday afternoon, when things were calm and many streets before they encountered touts who were selling gas masks.  Those Turkish merchants are always on top of ways to sell!

circumspect about circumsision

Su: soo (water)

The jury is out about the benefits of circumcision.  There is and has been some belief that it has a modest health benefit or will improve sexual function, of benefit that outweighs small risks.  There is a large volume of others who feel it has absolutely no benefit while having significant risks. No major medical organization recommends nor condemns universal circumcision. However, the World Health Organisation does recommend it as part of a comprehensive HIV prevention program in those parts of the world that have high HIV incidence.

About 30% of all males worldwide are circumsized, putting it as one of if not the most commonly medical performed procedure. It is common in Southeast Asia, Africa and the United States, and of course it remains part of the Jewish and Muslim tradition.  In Judaism it is done when a baby is just 8 days old.  In Islam, the boy is generally 7-10 years old.

Now I have no real opinion, being of an alternate gender, but wouldn't a boy of 7-10 years old be aware of what was happenng and in a position to yell and thrash about with pain?  Compared to a baby of 8 days for example, who yells and thrashes about all the time. 

I ask all of you men out there, you remember being 7 or 8 don't you?  Can you remember 8 days?  No.  Can you imagine if circumsicion was part of your memory.  What I did on my summer holiday indeed!!! I'm just sayin', if I were a boy child that was destined to go through circumcision, I would prefer it having been done before I had memory or even conscious thought

Here in Turkey, boys about to go for the procedure are dressed the day before like sultans.  They robes of white satin and white felt with fur.  They are given gifts and money and a great big party is thrown for them, as lavish as possible.  In fact the entire prcoess is often photographed for the family album. I say a little prayer for them for the coming day, but I must admit a slightly satistfied feeling that for once, such a painful part of being that age and that gender and that faith is not allocated to a woman child.